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Madrid - Culture

"Madrid has turned into the fable of Europe. It is called the capital of joy and of contentment. Describing our city in such terms means that it is welcoming, cordial, free, peaceful and universal".

This definition of how the capital of Spain is today, which was taken from a proclamation of the best-loved Mayor of Madrid, summarizes the prevailing atmosphere in the city, by cultural exaltation, the vitality of the cultural and spiritual movement in Madrid, which has found a happy as well as famous outlet in the so-called "movida" or festive spirit of the city.

Nobody is a foreigner in Madrid. The capital has always known how to be nice and amiable. Its environment, its bustle and happiness to be alive are contagious. Anybody who arrives in Madrid and remains in the city for some time finds it difficult to leave.

Its forcefulness and personality turn Madrid into an unforgettable city, and its plentiful resources of interest to tourism - nature, art, history - are rounded off extraordinarily well by a series of cities in its surroundings which are full of sights of historic interest, some of which have been included by the UNESCO in the list of places considered "world heritage": Ávila, Segovia, Toledo, as well as the Monastery of El Escorial. All of them lie within about 100 km. from the square La Puerta del Sol.

The capital has already more than three million inhabitants, while its municipal district covers 607 km2. Next to old buildings of historic interest, there are other modern ones, of doubtless value as well. It consists of different centers that are clearly separated from each other and have a personality of their own. Still others have some peculiar characteristics: there is a MADRID OF THE AUSTRIANS, another OF THE BOURBON; there is also a MADRID OF GOYA, the one of THE MUSEUM OF EL PRADO. THE ROMANTIC, ISABELLINE MADRID. There is the PICTURESQUE MADRID of "El Rastro" (The Flea Market), of the bullfighters, of the flamenco dancers, of the antique dealers, of the artists, of the playhouses.

The expression "los madriles" is more than justified since it refers to all the different aspects of the city, among them, MODERN MADRID, with its skyscrapers and avant-garde buildings and squares. The Congress and Exhibition Hall and the numerous facilities for holding fairs make Madrid a CONGRESS CITY.

HISTORIC SIGHTS

MEDIEVAL MADRID, around the calle Mayor, has many interesting buildings. On La Villa Square we find the 15th-c House and Tower of the Lujanes family. On the right there is the local Newspaper Museum and Library, in a building in the style of Toledo and with a Mudéjar entrance. Beyond La Villa Square there are the Church of San Nicolás de los Servitas, the oldest religious building preserved in Madrid, and Span Pedro El Real or El Viejo, a church founded by Alfonso XI, which has a Mudéjar tower. A little further along, there is the Square of the Marquis of Comillas, of great importance in medieval Madrid. Between this square and the one of La Cruz Verde, El Alamillo and La Ronda de Segovia there are remains of the Moorish Quarter.

The so-called MADRID OF THE AUSTRIANS begins to take architectural shape with Juan Bautista of Toledo and Juan de Herrera, who gives the aesthetic forms of Italian Renaissance a Spanish touch: The Convent of Las Descalzas Reales, the Bridge of Segovia, the House of Cisneros (on the Square of La Villa), the Chapel of El Obispo. Even more important historic sights come to Madrid with the architects Gómez de la Mora and Juan Bautista Crescendi. They are responsible for the Plaza Mayor and the House of La Panadería, the Convent of La Encarnación, the Prison of the Court (today the Ministry of Foreign Affiars), the Town Hall, the Palace of El Buen Retiro, the Palace of Los Consejos (today the local Ministry Headquarters).

BAROQUE MADRID is the work of the Churriguera family and their disciples, of the architect Pedro de Ribera and his contemporary Francisco Moradillo. Of the best works of that time the entrance gate of the former Hospice is preserved (today the local Museum and Library), as well as the Churches of Monserrat, Sacramento, Santa Bárbara and San Andrés, the Bridge of Toledo and the Entrance Gate of the Cuartel del Conde Duque (a former barracks)

THE BOURBON or neoclassical MADRID was built by the architects Sabatini, Ventura Rodríguez, Juan de Villanueva and a few others, in the company of a group of sculptors, who gave the finishing touches to the architectural constructions. Among the most important works here is Orient Palace which looks out over a magnificent panorama consisting of the gardens of La Casa de Campo, the Museum of El Prado, the Casón del Buen Retiro and Villahermosa Palace. The former Casa de Correos (Post Office building), one of the most characteristic buildings of Madrid with its clock striking 12 times to announce the New Year, stands in the center of La Puerta del Sol and is the seat of the Presidency of the Community of Madrid. It stands out together with La Real Casa de Aduanas, which is the Ministry of the Treasury today, in famous Alcalá Street, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Garden, the Fountains of Cibeles, Apolo and Neptuno, which were designed by Ventura Rodríguez; the Gate called La Puerta de Alcalá, one of the symbols of Madrid, the Church of San Francisco El Grande and the huge entrance gates of the Retiro Park. All of them mark this area in a special way.

MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY MADRID. In the las third of the 19th c, outstanding buildings were constructed including the Royal Spanish Academy by Aguado, The Stock Exchange by Repullés and the Bank of Spain, by Adaro and Sainz de Lastro, all of them examples of Classical architecture.

There are two buildings preserved in Madrid which date from the beginning of the 20th c and are very different but have one point in common: the seat of the Sociedad General de Autores, the former Palace of Longoria, by Grase Riera, which is one of the few examples of Modernism in Madrid, and the Palace of Communications, by Palacios and Otamendi, where Plateresque and Modernist aspects are combined.

In the first decades of the century the Gran Vía is built. From 1910 to 1917, the first stretch from Alcalá to the Red de San Luis. In 1922 it is extended as far as the Square of Callao and in 1925 the stretch leading to the Plaza de España is begun. At the same time it becomes the heart of the city which it is still today. Its remarkable buildings, especially the building of the Telephone Company, the Place of La Prensa and the Palace of La Música, as well as the Military Casino and the Círculo de la Unión mercantil e Industrial, which were constructed by Cárdena, Muguruza, Zuazo, Sainz de los Torreros, and others, as well as its numerous hotels, cinemas, shops, night clubs and discotheques make it one of the main thoroughfares of Madrid.

The Bank Central Hispanoamericano, the las work by Adaro, and the Bank of Bilbao Vizcaya, by Bastida, are other interesting buildings of the beginnings of the 20th c in the vicinity of the Gran Vía.

Other buildings of the first half of the century include the University City, the New Ministries, the Bullring of Las Ventas and the Momument in honour of Cervantes. This Monument, which stands near the Edificio España and the Torre de Madrid, which are an example of the architecture in the 50's, shapes the Plaza de España, in the vicinity of which we find the Debod Temple, which stands on the site where the Cuartel de La Montaña (a barracks) used to stand and which is a park today. The Egiypian Temple of the 4th c B.C. is a present, which Spain received from Egypt in recognition of the Campaign of Nubia.

Pintado Riba built the Congress and Exhibition Hall in 1964. Its main auditorium has room for 1,840 guests. There is another auditorium for 814 people and 9 more rooms, all of which are equipped with the most modern features. Today its façade shows a magnificent mural made of tiles by Miró.

In the complex "Altos de Hipódromo" and in many other places, it was Miguel Fisac, the architect of churches and buildings, who constructed such outstanding buildings as the Chapel of El Espíritu Santo, the Instituto de Óptica and the Instituto de Química Orgánica, within the group of buildings belonging to the Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (The Council for Scientific Research).

Torres Blancas (White Towers) on the Avenida de America and the modern Bank of Bilbao Vizcaya on La Castellana, both by Sáenz de Oiza, are representative of the 60's and 70's as architectural avant-garde symbols of Madrid. Also on the Castellana, which is the thoroughfare of finance there are Bankinter by Rafael Moneo and Bankunión by Corrales and Molezún.

Among the shopping centers, Azca deserves special mention, which was built by Perpiñá Sebriá, and since the beginnings of it construction it includes underground roads and car parks, pedestrian areas, flats, shops and offices.

La Vaguada is the most modern shopping centre in Madrid and was built by Césa Manrique. It symbolizes the 80's and includes one of the most complete offers with regard to shops and services serving the northern half of Madrid. Finally, since 1982 the silhouette of Madrid includes the Television Tower Torrespaña, which is 220m high and thus the highest building in Madrid.

Among the cultural centres, the first place corresponds to the National Library and Museums, the Council for Scientific Research, the Royal Academies, the Athenaeum of Madrid and the Círculo de Bellas Artes. Of more recent date is the Spanish Museum for Contemporary Art, the March Foundation and the Centro Cultural de la Villa or Cultural Centre of the City. Among others, Madrid also has another Cultural Centre called Reina Sofía.

THE PARKS AND GARDENS OF MADRID

THE PARK OF EL BUEN RETIRO- The capital Spain has admirable parks and for historic reasons the park of El Buen Retiro, which was begun in 1625, is the most important of Madrid, because of its size and its beauty. Its flowerbeds, designed in the French style, contract with the area of gardens in the English style and its wide avenues skirted by trees and thickly growing bushes. Since the Park is used as a center for exhibitions, it has two remarkable buildings for that purpose: the Palace of Velázquez, with outstanding brickwork and tiles by Daniel Zuloaga, and the so-called Crystal Palace, the most beautiful building in El Retiro, which is a jewel of Spanish architecture made of iron and glass. In both places exhibitions are taking place at the moment. The Park has other distinct features like the monument in honour of Alonso XII, which was made by 32 first-class sculptors within a Modernist framework in front of which there is the small artificial lake, on which it is possible to row, the monument in honour of the Fallen Angel, as well as many other statues in many corners and along the walks, not forgetting the gardens of Cecilio Rodríguez near the "Rosaleda" (Rose Garden). It is possible to visit the Park by hiring a horse-drawn carriage.

THE GARDENS OF SABATINI, CAMPO DEL MORO AND PLAZA DE ESPAÑA- In the vicinity of the Royal Palace, there are the Gardens of El Campo del Moro, which were built in the reign of Isabel II. The Gardens of the north side of the Palace, known as those of Sabatini, were built in 1933 when the stables disappeared. The Nearby Gardens of the Plaza de España complete the picture.

THE PARK LA CASA DE CAMPO- Felipe II on the right-hand side of the River Manzanares bought this large terrain. Recently its park features were totally recovered. The Casa de Campo was re-afforested by order of the King with the idea of converting it into a large park for small game near the former fortress, and today apart from sometimes thickly wooded areas it has a large lake with boats to practice sports, apart from other sports installations: eg, a swimming pool, tennis courts, etc. Also in operation is a modern Funfair and a Zoo with all the features that belong to this type of installation.

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN- Under official protection as a monument since 1974, it is part of the scientific complex which was built in the Paseo del Prado when Carlos III decided to move it to that place. Villanueva designed the garden, the entrance gate, the glasshouse and the lecture hall. After its restoration in 1980, the interesting collection of flora can be visited as well as the exhibition of living plants that are organized from time to time.

THE ESTATE AND PARK OF LA FUENTE DEL BERRO- the City Council of Madrid bought it in 1948. Initially it belonged to the Condestable or Governor of Castle. Officially declared an artistic garden, it is one of the most intimate, quiet and peaceful, with its watercourse, cobblestone walks, glasshouses, fountains and flowerbeds.

ROSALES AND THE PARQUE DEL OESTE (WEST PARK)- On the western border of Madrid, the Park of Rosales and the West Park, in which the Rose Garden can also be visited, contribute an important area of green spaces which are doubly agreeable because of their size and the way they are cared for. A cable car connects them with the Casa de Campo.

DEHESA DE LA VILLA.- Perhaps the wildest of all, this park lies near the University City and consists of a sizable pine forest with numerous places for picnicking.

THE MAIN MUSEUMS

Madrid has a large number of museums, where the great masters of Spanish and universal painting are found. There are also museums for sculpture, archaeology, since, etc.

THE PALACIO REAL (ROYAL PALACE).- It includes two centuries of Spanish history. It is one of the best places in Europe. Apart from its architecture, the collections of porcelain, tapestries, furniture, armor and paintings are outstanding. Bailen s/n. Tel: 541 08 76

ARMERÍA REAL (ROYAL ARSENAL) AND THE MUSEUM OF CARRIAGES.- There is a magnificent collection of weapons and armor and of old horsedrawn coaches and harnesses. It is visited together with the Royal Palace.

CONVENTO DE LAS DESCALZAS REALES.- It was founded in the 16th c. and has a valuable collection of paintings, carvings and tapestries. Plaza de Las Descalzas Reales. Tel: 521 27 79

MUSEO ARQUELÓGICO (ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM).- There are collections of prehistoric objects as well as of objects from Antiquity, the Middle Ages and Modern Times. A sculpture of the "Dama de Elche". Coins and ceramics of all times. A faithful reproduction of the Altamira Caves (Santillana del Mar, Cantabria). Serrano, 13. Tel: 577 79 12

LÁZARO GALDIANO MUSEUM.- There are 37 rooms with paintings of Spanish masters, early Flemish masters, the Italian, French and British Schools. Collections include jewels, ceramics, enamels, coins, silver objects, ivory, carvings and furniture. Serrano, 122. Tel: 561 6084

MUSEO DE LA ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE SAN FERNANDO (ARTS MUSEUM).- Collections include Spanish paintings of all periods: Velázquez, Murillo, Goya, Vicente López, Sorolla, etc. Alcalá, 13. Tel: 522 14 91.

ERMITA DE SAN ANTONIO (A HERMITAGE).- The frescoes covering the cupola and vault are masterpieces by Goya and are part of the fundamental works of Spanish painting. The painter's tomb Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida, s/n. Tel: 542 07 22.

MUSEO ROMÁNTICO (MUSEUM OF THE ROMANTIC PERIOD).- A collection of furniture and paintings reminiscent of the second third of the 19 c. San Mateo, 13. Tel: 448 10 71

MUSEO DE CIENCIAS NATURALES (NATURAL SCIENCE MUSEUM).- Collections of Zoology, Geology, Paleontology and Entomology. Paseo de la Castellana, 82. Tel: 561 86 00

MUSEO ESPAÑOL DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO (SPANISH MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART).- Temporary exhibitions of great interest are organized from time to time. Avda. Juan de Herrera, 2. University City. Tel: 549 71 50.

MUSEO MUNICIPAL (CITY MUSEUM).- There are all manner of artistic objects related to the history of Madrid: paintings, porcelain, maps, etchings, photographs. Fuencarral, 78. Tel: 588 86 72.

MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTES DECORATIVAS (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS)- 62 rooms with ceramics, furniture and other popular decorative elements from everywhere in Spain. Montalbán, 12. Tel: 532 64 99.

SOROLLA STUDIO AND MUSEUM.- Paintings and sketches are shown in the house where the painter lived. General Martínez Campos, 37. Tel: 310 15 84.

Most of the museums are closed on holidays, including on January 1st, on Monday Thursday and Good Friday, on November 1st, on December 24th, 25th and 31st, as well as on Mondays. Opening times, which in some cases may vary, are generally from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., either without closing or closing during the lunch hours. On Sundays, visiting times are limited exclusively to the morning.

PLANETARIUM

In the new Tierno-Galván Park, a planetarium was built with a dome that is 17.5 m across. The projection hall has room for 250 people. The projector is one of the most sophisticated models in the market and can show all the constellations as well as travel through time, ie, show the sky as it will look in a thousand years or the one our ancestors saw or create the sensation of traveling though space down the Milky Way. Other rooms that can be visited include the videoroom, the astronomers' room, where exhibitions are organized, the library and observation tower. The planetarium is open every day of the week, except on Mondays, and the entrance fee depends of whether one comes alone or with a group.

CULTURAL LIFE

The cultural panorama of Madrid is marked today by a large number of public and private cultural institutions, banks and savings banks, universities and student residences that compete in converting the cultural spirit of Madrid into a reality that is tangible as well as multifarious. There are exhibitions, concerts, plays, films, conferences and musical performances of almost any subject in the city. The main organizers include the Ministry of Culture, the Community of Madrid, the City Council, the Autonomous University as well as the University known as La Complutense, apart from the Polytechnics, with regard to public organizations, and the Athenaeum, the Círculo de Bellas Artes, the March Fondation, the Club of Friends of the UNESCO, the Banco Exterior, the Bank of Bilbao Vizcaya, the Savings Bank of Madrid, the Postal Savings Bank, La Caixa, the Savings Bank of Barcelona and the Mantuano and Alberto Sánchez Centres.

Most outstanding among them are the International Theatre Festival, the International Film Festival, the International Opera Festival, the festival called "The Summers of the City", and the Autumn Festival together with the seasonal performances at the theater La Zarzuela and the Jazz, Pop and Rock Festivals, not forgetting the Fair for Contemporary Art called "Arco".

EXHIBITIONS-Apart from the collections in the museums, which are on show in those listed above, important exhibitions are organized in the main galleries in the course of the year. The Office of the Director General for Fine Arts in the Ministry of Culture uses the Picasso Room in the National Library as well as the Palace of Velázquez and the Crystal Palace in the Park of El Retiro.

The Arts Centre "Reina Sofia", which is installed in the now restored former "Hospital General" of Madrid, a building of the end of the 18th c., was established to promote contemporary art and the creation of works of art as well as to further the communication with creative movements on an international basis. It also includes the new galleries of the Ministry of Culture. The Community of Madrid has converted the water deposit of the Madrid waterworks "Canal de Isabel II" into a cultural center as well as into an exhibition gallery.

The Cultural Centre of the City, the Conde Duque Centre and the city Museum also organize interesting exhibitions as well as most of the private center listed above. With regard to art galleries, there are over 200 in Madrid, mainly in the Salamanca district, in the Centre and in the Chamberí district of Madrid. The Professional Association of Art Galleries publishes a brochure from time to time informing about its activities, collections and visiting times. This information also appears in the dailies.

MUSIC- The Auditorio Nacional de Música (National Music Auditorium) is the center where the annual concert cycles of the National Orchestras and Choirs of Spain take place as well as the Cycle for Chamber Music and Polyphony, the Spring Festival of Ibermúsica and other extraordinary concerts, while the season for the Opera and Zarzuela (Spanish Operetta) takes place in the Theatre of La Zarzuela. The National Ballet of Spain performs in the last mentioned theater or in the theater called Teatro Monumental. Practically all of the cultural centers mentioned organize concerts in their auditoriums, especially those of the City Band, which take place in the Templete del Retiro in the open air during the summer. In many establishments music, including jazz, pop, rock, heavy, Southamerican, etc., is performed live.

The establishments specializing in flamenco music are also large enough to accommodate all those who prefer folkloric music. 

THEATRE- The theater known as Centro Dramático Nacional - Teatro María Guerrero, which will soon be renamed Teatro de Europa (Theatre of Europe), created by the EU, is the first on the list of national theaters, followed by the Centro Nacional de Nuevas Tendencias Escénicas (National Centre for New Stage Developments) and the Theatre of La Zarzuela; the list of city theaters is headed by the Cultural Centre of the City and the theater known as El Español, followed by another 25 that exist in Madrid. Performances include the best Spanish Classical Theatre as well as modern Spanish and foreign authors of the different genres. The summer theater known as "La Corrala" deserves special mention not only because of its architectural structure.

CINEMA- The National Film Library organizes cycles the same as the student residences, the Athenaeum, the Círculo de Bellas Artes and other cultural centers. The commercial cinemas complete the range of possibilities for film lovers.

BOOKS- The Book Fair which brings together the most important national publishers, the Fair of Old and Second-hand Books, the stalls on the "Cuesta Moyano" and the Bookshops for Old Books the San Bernardo Street and its surroundings as well as the stands in the street on the "Day of the Book", are organized to show the passers-by that the activities of Spanish publishers are growing. These passers-by also have the possibility of enjoying a fair number of libraries, and newspaper libraries, which are dedicated to spreading culture. In this sense worthy of special mention is the National Library with its extremely valuable books that number over two million volumes, the library of the Athenaeum, which is the most complete with regard to the 19th x, and the one of the Monastery of El Escorial because of its collection of codices.

NIGHT LIFE

Apart from the entertainment possibilities described above, there are plenty of discotheques, music halls, night club, pubs, disco-pubs, cafés and cafés-cum-concert, bowling alleys, bingos, casinos, etc., that proliferate in the night of Madrid and those who are fond of night life can "begin their day at night". What is more, there is the possibility of cinema sessions at dawn in some cinemas, while all the squares and boulevards are full of life as soon as the weather turns sunny and are ideal meeting places for a chat and conversation with friends.

THE SURROUNDINGS OF MADRID

Starting from Madrid, it is easy and far from strenuous to visit the surrounding sights. Many of them lie within the province itself, such as El Escorial, Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen), Aranjuez, etc., and are therefore very near and easily accessible.

Others are the capitals of the provinces bordering on Madrid like Toledo (71 Km), Guadalajara (39 Km), Ávila (115 Km.) and Segovia (81 Km), or the villages and towns of these provinces, such as La Granja de San Ildefonso or Siguenza.

It is not necessary to underline the artistic value of cities such as Toledo - The old Visigothic capital and Imperial city, where Christian, Arab and Jewish cultures lived in harmony giving an example of perfect tolerance and leaving behind admirable traces of their existence - or Ávila - "The land of songs and saints ", which completely hidden behind its old walls -, or Segovia - with the noble stone of its Roman aqueduct, a two-thousand-year-old picture of culture and beauty.

On the other hand, it appears necessary to underline the importance of the royal residences, such as El Escorial - the idea, spirit and ex voto of Felipe II - (50 Km away, most of it along a motorway), La Granja de San Ildefonso - a product of the first Bourbon's longing for France, ie, Felipe V - or Aranjuez, a delightful garden in the middle of the Castilian Meseta. In order to visit these historic sites in the surroundings of Madrid it is possible to use public transport - the bus or train - or the services of the different travel agencies which have daily programs for such visits.

EL ESCORIAL

San Lorenzo de El Escorial, 49 Km from Madrid by road and 1,000 above sea level, is one of the former royal residences which in this case owes its universal fame to the famous Monastery which was built there by King Felipe II, but which today has a countless number of different attractions that will make a visit and stay there a very pleasant experience.

The renowned Monastery of San Lorenzo el Real gives an overall impression of grandeur and austerity that has never been equaled. Its granite, is the work of Juan Bautista from Toledo and of Juan de Herrera. On the façade of the Basilica, there are the statues of six kings of Judah (Josaphat, Hezequah, David, Solomon, Josiah and Manasseh), which were carried out by the sculptor from Toledo, Juan Bautista Monegro, who also made the main entrance to San Lorenzo.

Not content with building the "eighth wonder of the world", the King took over large tracts of land in its surroundings to build the Royal Woods of San Lorenzo, in the clearings of which magnificent buildings were constructed. Afterwards, during the reign of Carlos III, the "Casita del Príncipe" was built, which is a marvelous casino-cum-museum, as well as the House of the "Infante", which lies in a splendid place. The reconstruction of the Theatre of El Coliseo of Carlos III, one of the oldest stages in Europe, has given new life to the cultural trends in the city.

A few kilometers from El Escorial, in a wild valley of the Guadarrama Sierra, on top of the ridge called La Nava, we find the monument of La Sant Cruz del VAlle de los Caídos (Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen), the silhouette of which is an unmistakable granite cross, 150m high and 46m long at the cross piece. It was built as a mausoleum for the soldiers that fell victim to the Civil War. It is also the burial place of General Franco. The funicular railway, which runs from the esplanade at the back to the base of the cross, is an extra attraction for tourists.

TOLEDO

In Toledo, La Puerta de Bisagra (lit.: Gate of the Hinge), over which the imperial coat-of-arms of Carlos V is found, welcomes the visitor. Behind it the fascinating world of the monumental sights of Toledo opens up with its intimate corners, its streets and squares, among which the Square of Zocodover is especially famous as the bustling center and hear of the city. And before the astonished eyes of the visitor a series of the most beautiful buildings begins to take shape: the Cathedral, the chief Church of Spain, which is purist Gothic, and whose Sacristy is a veritable museum of art, with paintings by El Greco, Lucas Jordán, Juan de Borgoña, Van Dyck, Tristán, Goya, etc. The Archbishop Don Rodrigo Jiménez de Rada commissioned it. Then there is the Museum of Sant Cruz, which is the Arts and Archaeology Museum today; the Alcázar, the Synagogues of Santa María La Blanca and El Tránsito, the Churches of San Juan de los Reyes and Santiago del Arrabal, the Mosque of El Cristo de La Luz, the Victorio Macho Museum, the Tavera Hospital, the Place of Fuensalida, the Taller del Moro (The Moor's Workshop) and the hermitages of El Cristo de La Vega.

But is impossible to mention Toledo without a special reference to El Greco, whose best work, the "Burial of Count Orgaz", is preserved in the Church of Santo Tomé. El Greco, who lived and painted in the imperial city, has a house-cum-museum there with an important collection of his works. To absorb the spirit of Toledo completely, it is necessary to know every nook and cranny, to wander through its narrowest little streets, to look out over the Tagus and let one's eyes lose themselves in the wide horizons.

SEGOVIA

The Rivers Eresma and Clamores form the sharp silhouette of Segovia, the highest point of which is shaped like the bows of a ship where the Alcázar or Moorish fortress provides a view, which has become famous. Behind it, the city is full of typical houses, with beautiful places and magnificent monuments, among which the most impressive example of its kind stands out in its own right: the Aqueduct.

The 167 granite arches that make up the Aqueduct were, it seems, built in the 1st c and since then, without any noticeable signs of deterioration, the structure rises proudly as one of the most artistic and archaeologically valuable monuments in the world. The Cathedral of Segovia stands in the former Jewish Quarter. It was built in the 16th c and has a series of admirably executed chapels, nave and aisles especially the Nave of El Evangelio.

Another must is a visit to San Milán of the 12th c, without forgetting the Churches of San Esteban, of La Vera Cruz and of San Justo, the Monastery of El Parral, the Convent of the Carmelitas Descalzas, the Palaces of the Marquis of Lozoya, the Marquis of El Arco and the Espiscopal one, the House of the Picos family and the walls, apart from other sights and places full of reminiscences. What is more, Segovia is surrounded by countryside full of exceptional beauty, with Pine Woods such as the one of Valsaín and high ridges where the sky is of the clearest blue. Not far from the capital, there is the royal residence of La Granja de San Ildefonso, with a beautiful palace, gardens and huge fountains, as well as the Palace of Riofrío, with its Hunting Museum and its Park full of Red and Fallow Deer. Along the itinerary of the Sierra, there is the Romanesque Church at Sotosalbos, the Pine Forest of Navafría and the Holly thickets and caves at prádena before we reach Pedraza, a route of special interest to tourists, the same as the one called the route of the castles: Pedraza, Sepúlveda, Castilnovo and Turégano.

ÁVILA

At 1,127 m above sea level on the banks of the River Adaja, Ávila, half martial, half mystic, is surrounded by walls that have preserved the city for almost a thousand years.

The Cathedral, which has a certain air of a fortress, is part of the wall and combines different artistic styles, from Romanesque to Baroque. Next comes the interesting Basílica of San Vicente, with a most beautiful façade and a portal of the 14th c. After that the Romanesque Church of San Pedro, the Tothic Convent of Santo Tomás, the one of La Encarnación, where Saint Teresa lived for thirty years, and many other remarkable buildings which turn this fantastic city as a whole into a museum of incalculable value. From the boulevard El Rastro, the scenery of the Amblés Valley can be observed.

GUADALAJARA

The Palace of El Infantado is the most outstanding monument of the town. It was built under the direction of Juan Guas in the 15th c by order of the Dule Don Iñigo López de Mendoza and combines Gothic and Mudéjar features. Inside, its Patio de Los Leones (Court of the Lions) is the most outstanding part with its two rows of flamboyant arches, as well as the Salón de Las Batallas (Hall of Battles), which was decorated with paintings on the ceiling by the Italian Cincinato. Two years ago, the first floor was given over to the Arts Museum of the Province, which has interesting paintings and sculptures. The Parish Church of Sant María de la Fuente of the 14th c preserves two portals in a pure Arab style as well as interesting burial places such as those of Juan de Morales and Alonso Yánez de Mendoza. The 16th c Church of San Ginés includes the mausoleums of Don Pedro Hurtado de Menzoza and Don Iñigo López de Mendoza, Count of Tendilla, with their respective wives. San Nicolás has a beautiful Churrigueresque alter, the Instituto; ie, the former Convent of La Piedad, has a Plateresque portal in the Chapel ascribed to Covarrubias, the Gothic-Mudéjar Church of Santiago, ie, a former Convent called Santa Clara, with all its original atmosphere in place after the recent restoration, and the 16th c Chapel of Luis de Lucena, with Mudéjar decorations: all of them are full of artistic attractions on a visit to Guadalajara, the provincial capital closest to Madrid, with which it is perfectly communicated.

128km from Madrid, there is Siguenza in the Province of Guadalajara, one of the Spanish cities which has a very clearly defined character and is most harmoniously beautiful. From its Alcázar or Moorish fortress on top of a hill down to the banks of the Henares, the houses, palaces, convents and squares stand in a row looking out over the valley. Siguenza's jewel is its Cathedral, which dates from the first half of the 12th c. Inside, in the Chapel of the Arce family, there is the Gothic sepulchre of the Doncel Don Martín Vázquez de Arce, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful works of Spanish image making. In the Museum of the Cathedral, there is a collection of tapestries and in the Diocesan Museum of Ancient Art, there are important Romanesque sculptures, Plateresque altar pieces and oil paintings, among which an Assumption by El Greco is specially outstanding. Other important artistic sights include the Parish Church of Santiago y San Vicente, the House of the Doncel, Nuestra Señora de Las Huertas and the Hermitage of El Humilladero. Siguenza is protected as a National Artistic Treasure. In the vicinity of Siguenza, there is the town of Atienza, which as a whole is also protected as a National Monument.

ARANJUEZ

The two most important architectural works are the Royal Palace, the former residence of the Kings of the House of Bourbon, and the "Casita del Labrador", a small palace with rich collections of porcelain and clocks. Around these buildings, there are gardens with many waterfalls, huge fountains and peaceful pools, amidst the most varied lush vegetation.

Aranjuez is a modern, well-developed town, with typical restaurants on the banks of the Tagus, where one should not miss the opportunity of trying the typical asparagus and strawberries in the magic surroundings of palace, gardens and fountains.

ALCALÁ DE HENARES

It lays 30km from Madrid and is an urban complex full of artistic and historic sights. In the old part the former university is outstanding. It used to be the most important one in Spain and was founded by Cardinal Cisneros in 1496. In a Renaissance building, whose beautiful façade was designed by Rodrigo Gil de Ontañón, a public department has found its offices. Other outstanding sights include the Auditorium and the Patio of Santo Tomás de Villanueva. Further sights of special interest include the student residence Cisneros, the Church Magistral, the Palace of the Archbishop and the House of Cervantes.

HUNTING AND FISHING

The most numerous private game reserves lie in the provinces of Toledo and Guadalajara. The most important and most sought-after species is the Red-legged Partridge, of which there are plenty.

Also very important is the Sierra of Grados, 170km from Madrid, where the sportsman can go in search of the beautiful and difficult trophy of the Spanish Ibex. There is the Statgerun Parador of Gredos, which can be used as a starting point for excursions and hunting parties.

If one wants to hunt in this Reserve, one has to have not only the corresponding hunting permit, but also a special permission from the department administering the Reserve.

In the surroundings of Madrid, there are many rivers where fishing is good. The most abundant species include: Common Trout, Pike, Black Bass, Bue Carp and other members of the Carp family. The most important trout rivers are the Lozoya, Jarama, Manzanares, Alberche, Tormes, Júcar, Tagus, Escabas, Cabriel, Eresma, Estena, Alto Duero and Tera, which have many fish reserves. What is more, there are plenty of reservoirs where it is possible to fish, among them, El Burguillo, Entrepeñas and Buendía.

SNOW AND MOUNTAINS

Skiing is a further attraction of the winters in Madrid. Only 50km from the capital, there is the skiing resort of Navacerrada, which is perfectly connected by road and train. One of its runs is international, with a length of 3,500m over a slope descending over 750m. There are many mechanical installations, ski schools and shops with sports articles. Other such centers are the mountain pass of Cotos and Valdesquí, which are also skiing resorts where the sport can be practised. Cotos lies 7km from Navacerrada and has splendid natural conditions with heights between 1,700 and 2,300m over a slope descending for 690 m. From Cotos, it is possible to reach the Lagoon of Peñalara, where the scenery is extremely beautiful with a view of the Peak of Peñalara and the Ridge of Los Claveles.

About 100km from Madrid, at Riaza, there is La Pinilla, which has magnificent natural runs as well as sports and tourist installations.

Apart from hunting and fishing, mountaineering is possible in the Sierra of Gredos. The massif is a powerful wall between two Castilian mesetas and reaches its highest point at the Pico de Almanzor.

GOLF AND RIDING

Madrid has ten golf courses, outstanding among which are the course of the Real club de Puerta de Hierro, with 36 holes, 5km from the capital, and the one of the Club de Campo Villa de Madrid with 27 holes, which lies 4.5km away. In both the most important international championships have taken place. Other courses include: Central Deportivo de Barbarán; the Club Jarama Race; the Golf Club Herrería in San Lorenzo de El Escorial; the Club de Golf las Encinas de Boadillain Boadilla del Monte; the New Golf Club at Las Matas; the Club de Campo of Somosaguas; the Golf Club of La Moraleja and the Golf Club of Valdeláguila.

Riding is also widely practised in the capital of Spain. The racecourse called La Zarzuela on the road to La Coruña is visited by a large number of racing fans on every Sunday of the spring and autumn season. On this stage, the most interesting international competitions take place.

OTHER SPORTS

A short distance from Madrid, there is many reservoirs with peerless conditions for practicing water-sports. Water-skiing, motor, sailing and rowing boats find the best surroundings at the reservoirs of San Juan, Burguillo, Entrepeñas, Buendía, Bolarque and Alarcón.

Apart from that, it is possible to practice any type of sport in Madrid, from the most traditional, such as football, to ice-skating. Tennis is played in many courts and schools, and swimming is practised in open-air or indoor swimming pools, and so is basketball, volleyball, pelota for which there are modern installations that can accommodate a large number of fans.

COMMERCIAL ART/GALLERIES AND ANTIQUES

Madrid is a good place to look for and find what specialists call antiques. There are several important areas. One of them is El Rastro. There the knowledgeable one may discover antiques both on the stands in the street as well as in the galleries. However, the art dealers' street is by definition the street of El Prado and its surroundings: the Square of Las Cortes, the Carrera de San Jerónimo, etc. In the Salamanca area there are also a considerable number of art dealers, especially the modern Centre of Antique Dealers, which is a building with many Antique Shops on two floors. Interesting objects may also be found in the establishments specializing in paintings, carvings, books, porcelain, crystal, ivory, furniture, image making and others. Attending the auctions organized by the various companies is yet another way of entering the world of artistic objects and antiques for which the auction of the Monte de Piedad in Madrid is a forerunner, an institution that has been operating in the capital since 1724.

HANDICRAFTS

In Madrid, the most typical objects and handicraft works from all over Spain are on display in the windows of the many specialized shops. The most important handicraft in the surroundings of Madrid is found in Toledo, where the exquisite quality of damascene objects and silver ware can be observed, apart from the ceramic from Talavera, Illescas and Numancia de la Sagra and the marvellous embroidery from Lagartera, Oropesa and Torrijos. Other specialties worthy of special mention are the wrought iron products, polychrome cloth, glass and crystal from the Province of Segovia.

SHOPPING

Shopping in Madrid means entering a magnificent world of lights between the big stores and the luxurious shops whose windows are full of artistic arrays of all types of articles.

In the center of Madrid, especially the Gran Vía, the Salamanca area (Serrano) and the Castellana, the large stores are found in the company of the best boutiques, where any product, either national or foreign, may be bought. Jewellery, fashion and furs are perhaps the most tempting possibilities, where Spanish design takes a greater hold every day. The freedom today with regard to opening times makes it possible for the large stores and some shops to stay open at lunchtime or even on Sunday, or that certain establishments may serve their customers until early in the morning, also with uninterrupted opening hours.

THE CUISINE

Apart from modern restaurants where all the main dishes of the international cuisine are served, Madrid has plenty of typical restaurants where the customer may try the tastiest specialties of the traditional Spanish cuisine, where perhaps the Basque and Catalan cuisine stand out as well as the paella from Valencia, the fabada or white beans from Asturias or the cold vegetable soup known as gazpacho from Andalusia. What is more, Madrid has its own special cuisine, with its famous Madrid stew consisting of chickpeas, potato, meat, the piquant sausage called chorizo, black pudding, chicken and seasoning. The tripe made in accordance with a Madrid recipe is another speciality of the Spanish capital, where it is prepared with white wine, brandy, red pepper, onion, piquant sausage, ham and seasoning. Sucking pig is also widely prepared, the same as a soup called "a lo tio Lucas", not forgetting the asparagus and strawberries from Aranjuez.

The most characteristic dishes are the roast sucking pig of Segovia and Arévelo (Ávila), roast lamb in Ávila and Segovia. Other typical dishes in each place are: stewed partridge and "liebre a la cazadora" (hare) in Toledo; the kid stew, trout and river crab in Guadalajara; veal from the Amblés Valley, vegetables soup and beans from El Barco (Ávila) and the trout and beans from La Granja in Segovia. For dessert, there are the famous marzipans of Toledo, the sweets called "bartolillos" in Madrid and the honey from La Alcarria (Guadalajara). Among the wines, there are good white wines from Nieva (Segovia), clarets from Arévalo (Ávila) and from Arganda (Madrid). The reds come from Méntrida and Yepes (Toledo) and from Cebreros and Montefrío (Ávila).

FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS

In the second half of May, Madrid celebrates in honour of San Isidro. The celebrations are accompanied by typical Madrid folklore, including Fairs and Dances that are organized on the medow of San Isidro, where the people of Madrid sing, dance and enjoy themselves next to the Hermitage of their Patron Saint. At the same time, there are ballet and opera performances as well as the traditional bullfights at the bullring of Las Ventas.

Other festival occasions of importance in the surroundings that are officially considered of interest to tourists are: Corpus Christi in Toledo and the celebrations at Atienza (Guadalajara), Camuñas (Toledo), Mora (Toledo), Zamarramala (Segovia), Hita (Guadalajara), Candeleda (Ávila). Finally, there is the festival excursion to the shrine of the Virgin of Hontanares, an excursion called "romería" in Spanish, which takes place at Riaza, and the "Romería" of El Cristo del Caloco.

THE STATE-RUN PARADORES

In the Province of Madrid, there are several establishments that belong to the chain of State-run Pardores: The Parador de Chinchón in a former Convent of the Augustinian Friars that was built in the 17th c; it has four stars and 76 beds; in Alcalá de Henares, there is the Hostería del Estudiante (lit.: Hostelry of the Student), which lies behind the University building and is a four-fork restaurant.

In the Province of Toledo, two Paradores are in operation: the one in the capital called "Conde de Orgaz"(4 stars and 148 beds) from where there is a magnificent all-round view of the imperial city, and the one at Oropesa called "Virrey de Toledo" in a castle that was built in the 14th c during the reign of Pedro I of Castile.

In Ávila of "Los Caballeros" (the Knights) lies the one known as "Raimundo de Borgoña" with 121 beds comfortably installed in the 15th c palace of the Marquis of Benavides, and the Parador of Gredos at Navarredonda de Gredos (150 beds) surrounded by a marvellous scenery. Both have 3 stars and belong to the Province of Ávila.


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