San Marino - Culture

San Marino is a completely independent nation, member of the U.N. and everything. According to tradition, it has been independent, more or less, since 301 A. D. when a Christian stonemason called Marinus the Dalmation hid from the anti-Christian Roman Emperor Diocletian on the peak of the beautiful, foreboding and easily defended Mount Titano. The total landmass of the country is 61 km². It is completely surrounded by Italy. The citizens speak Italian. No, the San Marino Grand Prix is not actually held in the country itself. The rights have been farmed out to a nearby Italian town. They celebrate their founding day, September 3rd, with -- among other things -- a world-renowned crossbow competition and a nation-wide bingo game.

San Marino is also stunningly picturesque. Out of the centre of the country just the medieval majestic Mount Titano, itself crowned by the three defensive forts that have made independence possible. Spectacular cliffs face the Adriatic while the Old City tumbles like a veil down the back of Titano, towards the Apennines.

The country's major industry is its past. Most of the three MILLION tourists who visit each year come to see a seeming historical anomaly. They drive straight through the undulating Romagna countryside to Borgo Maggiore, a traditional market town at the foot of the Titano cliffs. Then it's right up the cable car to the San Marino city itself.

The Sammarinese have pragmatically complied with fiscal demands and abandoned much of the lovely Old Town to the tourists. Very few local residents remain in the car-less labyrinth of flagstone paths that winds through ancient limestone buildings, quarried from the mountain beneath it.

In the town, there are an abundant number of museums to cover the span of Sammarinese history. Geographically, the most fun of these is the forts. Up, past the castle-like government building, an architectural range of churches and ubiquitous but non-aggressive souvenir stands, the path leads inexorably to the three forts perched along the edge of the cliffs.

The first two forts house museums, one an impressive collection of ancient weapons that include, yes, a plethora of crossbows. As an added bonus, you get to roam around parapets, up stone steps, down metal ladders and along sentinel paths that border the cliff's edge. Potentially sole destroying, the rugged ramble is a medieval-themed jungle gym for adults punctuated by pauses to absorb the spectacular views down the coast to the Adriatic. On a clear day you can see Croatia.

If you are looking for an  Old Country, San Marino is for you. There is even a sunken crossbow pitch where weeklong medieval celebrations are held, complete with flag throwing acrobats, authentic food and a full tights-for-the-boys dress code.

But the hit-and-run busloads of tourists who pose next to the plumed Council Guards and buy a souvenir pocket crossbow for the kids are missing the point. The most fascinating thing about San Marino, isn't its past, it is its present.

The historical obsession with independence has produced a nation, which, according to one Sammarinese, "breathes politics". Away from the pageantry of the Old City, in the restaurants and cafes and market at the foothills of Mount Titano, citizens talk, argue and occasionally yell about politics. Domestic voter turn out is near 99%.

Political structures are amazingly inclusive and self- monitoring. For example, the official Heads of State are two Co-Regents chosen from among the 60 members of the popularly elected Great and General Council. The Regents are from opposing political parties. There are two so that they can keep an eye on each other. If that wasn't enough, they only serve six-month terms so that they won't be tempted to build up a personal power base. And, once the term is over, there are three days of hearings in which any citizen can come forward with complaints about the conduct of the Regent while in office. If the complaints warrant it, all out judicial proceedings are launched. It's enough to make you seriously jealous.

The result is a citizenry that is deeply involved in the running of its country. They know that it is worth their while get involved because their input will be taken seriously. Socially, they have one of the most comprehensive free health care and education systems in the world.

Most tourists come to take pictures not talk to the locals. But if you even casually ask about local politics, the floodgates will open.

At lunch one day I met a Sammarinese doctor who was setting up an immunity research department at the nearby hospital. He was also a member of the Great and General Council. And San Marino's representative at an upcoming meeting of the European Security Council. He talked openly and casually about affairs of State before running off to see a patient. You have to admire a country where the politicians actually work for a living.

San Marino has one of the most vibrant political and social cultures in Europe. And if that isn't worth protecting with an armament of crossbows, what is?

Monuments, Museums, Works of Art and Places of interest. The entire centre of the capital San Marino, is a monument, "a medieval town perfectly preserved through the centuries as a gift to posterity." Along the cliff edge of Mount Titano stand the three magnificent fortresses, still linked together by walls and pathways to the town below. The town itself is surrounded by three enclosures of walls, which include many gateways, towers and ramparts. Inside the walls, the streets, buildings, churches and medieval houses, all in stone, have remained much as they were in the past. Besides the three fortresses - la Guaita, la Cesta and Montale - which represent big tourist attractions (especially the second which houses the Museum of Ancient Weapons), other main points of interest are: the Government Building, the Basilica and Church of Saint Peter, with the beds of Saint Marinus and Saint Leo, the Church of St. Francis with its Museum and Art Gallery, the Capuchin Friars' Church-St. Quirino and the Local Handicrafts Exhibition. There are also several private museums: the "Maranello Rosso" Collection, the Museum of Modem Weapons, the Veteran Car Museum, the Wax Museum, the Museum of Curiosities and the Reptilarium- Aquarium. In the eight townships scattered throughout the countryside around the central mountain Acquaviva, Borgo Maggiore, Chiesanuova, Domagnano, Faetano, Fiorentino, Montegiardino, Serravalle - the following are well worth a visit: the Malatesta Castle at Serravalle; the modern church at Borgo Maggiore designed by the Florentine architect Michelucci; The Postal, Philatelic and Numismatic Museum (at Borgo Maggiore, currently closed due to renovation work); the Church and Convent at Valdragonei the fort at Pennarossa, and many other churches, ancient buildings and places of interest. 2) Local beauty spots. Mount Titano, hillsides, pine woods and nature parks ( Montecerreto Pinewood, Montecchio Nature Park, Ausa Park at Dogana, Laiala Park at Serravalle, nature walk at Domagnano), hunting and fishing reserves

Excellent first Plates of homemade pasta: tortellini, passatelli, tagliatelle, oven-baked lasagna, ravioli, cannelloni, strozzapreti, cappelletti in brodo, etc. Main dishes usually centre on meat: oven-roasted rabbit, chicken, quails, cutlets, cutlets Bolognese, assorted mouthfuls, saltimbocca, etc. Desserts: San Marino cake, cacciatello (made with milk, sugar and eggs), bustrengo. Wines: Moscato San Marino, Biancale, excellent locally- produced Sangiovese, Grilet.