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Moscow - Culture

  

Moscow's central theatre district lies a short distance to the northeast of the Kremlin and Red Square. Both the Bolshoi and the Maly theatres sit directly on Theatre Square, while the Moscow Arts Theatre lies just around the corner.

Bolshoi Theater

The imposing home of the internationally-famed Bolshoi ballet was constructed in 1824 by Osip Bove, though the company itself was begun in 1773 as a dancing school for the Moscow Orphanage. For much of its history the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg overshadowed the Bolshoi, but with Moscow's restoration as the capital in 1918 it gained pre-eminence. For most of the last three decades the Bolshoi was led by Yuri Grigorovich, an artistic director known as much for his autocratic control as for his accomplished, classical choreography. Under Grigorovich's tenure, and graced by the presence of a series of remarkably gifted dancers, the Bolshoi's became known as one of the world's great companies. Despite Grigorovich's departure in 1995, its performances continue to elicit international acclaim, and an evening at the Bolshoi remains one of Moscow's sublime pleasures. Although recent years have begun to take their toll on the theater's grandiose ionic facade, the lovely, acoustically-excellent theater within remains as captivating a venue as ever before.

Maly Theater

Though much less well known today than either the Bolshoi or the MKhAT, the Maly gained renown during the nineteenth-century as a venue for social and political satires. The plays of Alexander Griboyedov (1795-1829), Nikolai Gogol (1809-52), and Alexander Ostrovskiy (1823-86) gained their first performances here, making the Maly an early centre for a culture of intellectual opposition to the Tsarist state.

The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum

Opened in 1912, the Pushkin Fine Arts Museum possesses a collection of European art second in Russia to only St. Petersburg's Hermitage. Much of the strength of the collection is in Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painting, a result of the oft-forgotten fact that such works gained an appreciative audience in Russia long before they captured the imagination of collectors further west. Manet's Dejeuner sur l'herbe resides here, as do Renoir's Bathing in the Seine, a host of fine works by Van Gogh and Matisse, and an entire gallery of Gauguins. Perhaps most exciting, however, is the long-anticipated "Gold of Troy" exhibition, slated for April 1996.

The Tretyakov Gallery possesses the finest collection of traditional Russian painting in the world. The core of the museum's collection was assembled in the middle of the nineteenth century by Pavel Tretyakov, a wealthy Moscow merchant whose passion for collecting included violins, birds, and milk cows as well as Russian art. Tretyakov donated his extensive collection to the city in 1892, and subsequent enlargement has long since provided the Gallery with far more works than it can possibly exhibit in its limited space. Although this means that innumerable fine works rarely see the light of day, it also means that those works that are displayed are without exception masterpieces of their period and genre. While everything in the Tretyakov deserves and rewards patient attention, its collection of icons stands as the definitive presentation of this most Russian of art forms.


Gorky House Museum

One of Moscow's finest examples of the art nouveau architecture of Fyodor Shekhtel, also known as the Ryabushinsky Mansion. The building served as the residence of the great writer Maxim Gorky from 1931 to 1936. Built just after the turn of this century, the mansion is appealing for its remarkable design and decoration, both inside and out. Shekhtel's design is an almost hallucinatory masterpiece of waveforms, floral mosaic and stucco decorations, and vibrant hues--the uncontested highlight is the sinuous main stair. All of these contrasts strongly with the building's significance as the home of one of Russia's greatest "proletarian" writers, but the irony merely add interest to a visit.


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