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Maniitsoq - Culture 

 

Midnight sun is a state of mind. Time makes no sense in this world. You can leave your watch in your suitcase. The day has no end.
The children will roller-skate down the streets in the middle of the night - with sun in their faces. Small motorboats chug out of the harbour. Groups of people sit on the rocks here and there, enjoying the never-ending sunlight.

The midnight sun can be encountered north of the Polar Circle. In Ilulissat, for example, the sun never sets from May 25th to July 25th, and during that period "normal" calendar time is virtually non-operative.

It is light around the clock. At what used to be night time the soft, warm light and the long shadows from the low-hanging sun bring the scenic backdrops into dreamlike and almost supernaturally beautiful relief.

The northern lights are no less impressive. White, yellow, green and red they sweep across the dark sky in a state of eternal, rapid flux. Accumulate in intensity and culminate in scenery beyond imagination.

Northern lights appear all year round in Greenland, but they can only be observed against a clear, dark night sky. They appear at a height of about 100 kilometres (65 miles) and have the shape of a flapping curtain or points radiating from a single dot.  

The phenomenon is due to electrically charged particles from the sun entering the earth's atmosphere and being conveyed from there by the magnetic field lines. When the particles meet the molecules in the atmosphere, the northern lights arise, their colour being determined by the nature of the molecules.

The US National Science Foundation operates a scientific station near Kangerlussuaq, devoted to the study of northern lights.  

The word "Maniitsoq" means "uneven" in the Inuit language. And uneven it is. The highest and wildest mountains in West Greenland surround the Maniitsup community. The wild mountains and the long and narrow fjords make this landscape very unique and completely different from other places in Greenland.

The community has 4.000 inhabitants. 3.000 live in the town of Maniitsoq, situated on the island of the same name. Its distinctive look is due to the rugged area. From the small centre by the sea, the town stretches along the narrow valleys with wooden houses and even big apartment buildings clinging to the hillsides. As a result the town is blessed with a labyrinth of stairways.

The community also includes three settlements, Kangaamiut, Napasoq og Atammik.

The weather in the Maniitsoq area, as well as most of the coast of Greenland, changes a lot faster than in most other countries. Within 10-15 minutes the weather can change from clear and sunny to cold and foggy. The difference in the landscape creates a number of different local conditions, which means that climate and precipitation can vary radically within small distances.

The community covers a surface of 79.500 km², almost twice the size of Switzerland. Only 17.000 km² are open lands. The rest is covered by ice.

In the northeast corner of the community lies the Kangerlussuaq Inland. This arctic highland has an extreme climate, with temperatures ranging from plus 20° C in summer to minus 40° C in winter. In this area lies the valley of Arnangup Qooroa (Paradise Valley). The geology and wildlife of this remote and isolated valley, makes it one of the most exciting and beautiful places in Greenland. The valley has been National Reserve for more than 20 years. At the head of the 180 km long Kangerlussuaq fjord (Sdr. Strømfjord) lays the gateway to Greenland, Kangerlussuaq International Airport.  

The wild mountains and the isolated forefront of the inland ice, called “the Sukkertoppen Icecap”, dominate the northwestern part. A number of fjords cuts deep into the mountains. One of them is the impressive Kangerlussuatsiaq (Evighedsfjorden), 80 km long and up to 700 m deep. The mountains go vertically 2.000 m from the banks of the fjord. At the mouth of Evighedsfiorden lies Kangamiut, a settlement with 500 inhabitants.

Sdr. Isortoq fjorden marks the frontier between the alpine north and the milder and greener landscape of the southern part of the community. The mountains are not so steep and are much more accessible for hikers. In the skerry at the mouth of the fjord lies the Maniitsoq Island.

Fiskefjorden marks the southern frontier of the community. The fjord is actually a huge complex of fjords and lakes. Due to the tide and the enormous amounts of water, that have to pass the narrow straits, a couple of very impressive and dangerous whirlpools makes sailing a harrowing affair.

The main part of the area consists of 3,5 billion-year-old bedrock. This makes the bedrock in the area one of the oldest in the world.

There are many sites where it is possible to find precious stones and semi-precious stones: for example diamonds, rubies, garnets, corundum and the Maniitsoq stone, a kind of lazurit.

Fauna and flora

During the summer there are ample opportunities of seeing whale and seal, especially at the mouth of the fjords. Among the most frequent visitors are fin whale, minke whale and humpback whale. The most common seals are harp seal and ringed seal.

In the highland and the mountains of the highland, large herds of reindeer can be seen. Hares and polar foxes can be seen everywhere. In Arnangup Qooroa and near the Kangerlussuaq Airport it is very easy to spot the musk ox.

The area has a rich bird life, especially in the fjords Kangerlussuatsiaq, Sermilinguaq and Sdr. Isortoq, where you can see bird cliffs with thousands of murres and sea gulls. The most common species are kittiwake, Atlantic murre, razorbills and black guillemots. The ptarmigans can be seen everywhere. The raven is also quite common and it is also possible to see the king of birds, the white tailed eagle.

As everywhere in the arctic, vegetation is sparse. However, if you look carefully, you can find many spots with very varied vegetation. In the head of the fjords Sdr. Isortoq and Fiskefjorden there are large areas with willow and green alder scrub. The most common plants and flowers are crowberry, Arctic blueberry, Labrador tea, fireweed and some heather plants. Another common plant is angelica that is used for salad and a spice for schnapps.

The town of Maniitsoq and the 3 settlements has been hunting and fishing communities for ages. Fishing is still the lifeline of the community. The shrimps are dominant, but lately attemps have been made to find new species for commercial fishing, like crabs and sea urchins.

The traditional hunt for sea animals and birds has survived, though motorboats and rifles have replaced kayak and spear.

Hunting and fishing is also the most commen leisure activity. From May to October there is an intense traffic of small boats in the skerry and fjords. Many families spent most of the summer camping on the sites, where their family has had their hunting and fishing grounds for centuries. Some have made cottages, others still prefer to stay in tents. During the summer the catch is smoked, salted or dried for the winter.

On the local market, called " brædtet ", fresh fish, birds and various sea animals are on sale. " Brædtet " also serves as meeting point for the locals, and news and gossip are exchanged.

During a visit in Greenland you may here the word "kaffemik". A birthday in the family or any other good opportunity will provoke a "kaffemik". Then anyone acquainted with the family is invited at home for coffee and cake, normally 7 different types of cakes tarts and biscuits are served. You come and go as you like, and there is constant coming and going all day long. Don't miss it, if you get the chance.

The people of Greenland like to sing. The Maniitsup community has 3 choirs, one of them being the oldest choir in Greenland, founded in 1918.

The production of arts and crafts is very common. The handicraft products are made of sealskin, bones from whales and reindeer and stone, especially soap stone.

On special occasions like christening, first day in school, confirmation and weddings many people wear the beautiful national costume.

The national day on June 21. is an important day in the community. People gather in the morning in front of the town hall to meet with the town council. Later almost everybody goes to church. The rest of the day and night there are various activities, music and dance. In between people will go for a picnic in the mountains, bringing the traditional Greenlandic food (dried fish, seal and whale meat, boiled seal soup, shrimps) and the specialty of the day, angelica.

 

 

Angling

Halibut the size of coffee tables, giant cod and mega-catfish weighing 10-20 kilos, salmon of the deepest pink and king-size char eager to bite. Does that sound like a dream? Well, it's not in Greenland." This is the way, the Danish journalist and angling expert, Peter Steensen, begins his description of angling in Greenland.

This description goes for the Maniitsoq area as well. The special thing about this area is the amount and variety of rivers filed with Arctic char. Anglers value the Arctic char. According to a group of Norwegian and Danish anglers testing the rivers in the Maniitsoq area, some of these rivers are world top class, with the combination of nature and the strength and size and amount of fish in these rivers.

The rivers of Greenland can be divided in two groups, cloudy or unclear melt-water rivers, and clear rivers, which, generally, originate from lakes. The rivers in the Maniitsoq area are mainly of the last named category.

High season for Arctic char is from mid July until the end af August, when the fish returns from the summers stay in the open sea. The Arctic char gains a lot of weight in these 6-10 weeks of summertime, gorging itself on capelin, krill, prawns and other good things from the sea.

For the 2000 season, we offer fishing tours to 2 of the most exciting rivers, the Kangia river and the Karra river.

The fjords and the skerry make the Maniitsoq area an ideal place for sailing and kayaking.

Most local people have their own boat, ranging from small dinghy’s to large and expensive motorboats and yachts. During the summer everybody leaves for the countryside in weekends. The boat is also used for evening cruises and if you are lucky, you might get invited.

Maniitsoq has a great tradition for kayaking. The kayak disappeared in the early sixties, when the dinghy became popular among the hunters, but young Greenlanders brought back the kayak as a sport in the eighties. The Maniitsoq Kayak Associacion has done much to promote the sport.

In the summer of 1998 a new kayaking centre will open in Maniitsoq. It will be the home of the local kayak association, include a workshop for the making of traditional greenland ic kayaks, and of course the rental of kayaks and starting point of courses and excursions.

3 detailed maps of the Maniitsoq area, published in 1998, will include suggestions for several excursions.

The Maniitsoq Kayaking Centre has 10 sea kayaks for rental, so far. 5 from the Canadian company "Current Design" and 5 from the Norwegian "Hasle Explorer". They also rent wet suits and other useful equipment.

Due to the hilly terrain, the large amount of fjords and the fact, that the town of Maniitsoq is situated on a small island, a boat will be necessary for most excursions. 3 new detailed maps of the Maniitsoq area published in 1998 include a large number of suggestions for excursions.
For excursions we only use approved boats. The boat we use was built for this purpose in Finland in 1997, takes 12 passengers and has a cruising speed of 24 knobs.
Maniitsoq Tourist Service offers a variety of excursions. From the 1998 programme we will mention:

A. Hike to the "pattefjeld" mountain. A 8 hour hike to the Pattefjeld mountain will lead through the very rugged landscape of the Maniitsoq island. The mountain itself has an altitude of 520 m. From the top there is magnificent view of the Maniitsosq area.

B. Cruise around Maniitsoq island. A 3 hour trip round the island by boat will take us to the small bay of Ataa, through the strait of Angmarqoq where whales and seals are often seen. Later we sail along the west coast of the Island, passing the impressive and very steep island called Kin of Sal.

C. Cruise to the deserted village of Ikkamiut 8 hour trip to the deserted settlement of Ikkamiut, that lies between the the Sermilinguaq fjord and the Ikkamiut fjord. Ikkamiut was abandoned in the fifties, but people have lived here for thousands of years. In the surroundings are ruins, graves and other remains from the earlier settlements. The day will be spent looking at the historical sites, hiking, fishing and enjoying the magnificent view of the surrounding mountains.
This trip is also done as a 2 day trip leaving more time for exploring this very interesting area.

D. Cruise and mountain hiking in the Sdr. Isortoq fjord area 8 hour trip to Tupertalik in the Sdr. Isortoq fjord. The boat trip normally takes 1 hour, but may take longer depending on how many whales we meet on our way. We also pass the large birdcliff. In Tupertalik we walk along the river to the Nakausaq waterfall and enjoy the beautiful landscape.  


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