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Tinos lies very close to the
southern tip of Andros. This is the holy island of Our Lady, which in
August is swamped by pilgrims who have come to pray in Her church
(second photo above) or in
fulfilment of a vow. As Our Lady's feast day on 15 August approaches, the
church and the town of Tinos become crammed with people, and religious
services take place next to the commercial fair being held in the
surrounding streets.
A line of
mountains, whose
highest peak is Mt Tsiknias (in the myths, the home of the wind-god Aeolus),
runs the length of the island. On its lower slopes, walls like the
fortifications of old castles divide the terraced fields. The coast of the
island is mostly steep, but there are also numerous coves with sandy or
pebbly beaches. Among the special characteristics of Tinos are its
dovecotes. These structures developed from simple roosts for pigeons into
works of art - and the stone-built fountains to be seen in the villages
evolved in a similar manner.
Church of Our Lady.
As
Our Lady's feast day on
August 15
approaches, the church and the town of Tinos become crammed with people,
and religious services take place next to the commercial fair being held
in the surrounding streets. The
church stands imposingly, high up at the end of the road. It is built of
white marble and is ringed by a number of ancillary buildings. The famous
healing iconof Our Lady dominates its interior. It is studded with diamonds,
sapphires and pearls, the offerings of emperors, kings and the faithful.
The church was built in 1823, during the revolt of the
Hellenes against the Ottoman rule, on the spot where the miraculous
icon was found.
End of a pious pilgrimage
Known
as the island of Our Lady, Tinos is the greatest centre of pilgrimage in
Greece. For that reason most of the visitors do not prolong their stay,
and thus see little of the beauty of the island: the blindingly-white
traditional villages have unadulterated Cycladic architecture and the
famous dove-cotes which are constructed with great skill and imagination
and are found almost exclusively in Tinos.
In addition,
Tinos has superb beaches with white sand, crystal-clear water and cool
breezes in the summer. The island has long spells of sunlight in the
summer, which helps to make Tinos one of the most interesting places in
the Cyclades.
A
wonderful road connects most of the villages of the island. In Tinos one
can see fine exhibits of local architecture.
Tinos,
capital of the island and its port, is where most of the population lives.
A broad paved street leads from the harbour to the low hill on which
stands the magnificent church of Our Lady.
There
are plenty of good beaches, too, notably at Agios Fokas near the town,
Kionia, Porto, Panormos bay, Kolimbithra, Agios Sostis and Pahia Amos.
The
lunar landscape at the spot known as 'Volax', with its peculiar boulders,
is probably unique anywhere in the world. The beauties of Tinos are
gradually making a name for themselves. Although amenities for tourists
outside the town are scanty, they are constantly expanding.
A
full tour of the island can include picturesque villages
in the interior like Komi, Kalloni, Kardiani, Isternia and the insuperable
Pyrgos (the largest and the most attractive village in Tinos), and a visit
to the coast of the island in villages like Kionia, Kolymbithra and the
pretty little harbour of Panormos
.
Here is an
article on Tinos's beauty and psyche, of things the visitor has the
privilege to discover himself
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TINOS: THE BEST KEPT SECRET
OF THE CYCLADES
By
Sharon Turner, Tinos
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The beauty,
the romance, the myth of the Greek Islands, even with today's mass
tourism, still can be found on the third largest of the Cycladic
Island group, the Island of Tinos. Just a thirty-minute ferryboat trip
away from its sister island, Mykonos, a wonderful surprise awaits the
visitor upon his arrival at the Port of Tinos ~ an island offering
first-quality accommodation; inexpensive, freshly-prepared local
cuisine; pristine, uncrowded beaches; and plenty of activities to
amuse, or peace and quiet to relax.
Though Tinos is by far the most popular destination for Greek
tourists, who come to visit the famous Church of the Panagia and the
miraculous Icon of the Virgin Mary, the foreign visitor will find all
of those special ingredients that make a holiday truly memorable,
guaranteed to entice him, like the Greeks, to return again and again.
The expansive island scenery is, simultaneously, dramatic and serene.
Rolling hills of green and brown, laced with an intricate series of
endless rock walls, a landscape dotted with clusters of white
villages, churches and dovecotes, all accessed by excellent paved
roads. While travelling through the countryside, you have the
overwhelming feeling of going back in time to a centuries-old way of
life which has changed little over the years. Here, you can still see
the farmer plowing the fields with his donkey, observe the ancient
craft of basketweaving, or perhaps follow the locals about in their
search for wild dandelion leaves and capers to add to a wonderful
fresh Greek salad.
There is no limit to the number of nature walks you can take through
fields of wild flowers. Pack a lunch or stop at one of the village
tavernas for an inexpensive, freshly-prepared lunch or dinner,
accompanied by homemade cheeses and wines. Not to be missed are the
local sausages, the famous Tinos beef and pork, and the sinfully
delicious Tinos honey.
As you wander through the countryside, you are never far from a beach
and an opportunity to cool off in sparkling clean waters, often
without another soul in sight. For the adventurous, there are caves to
explore, mountains to climb, and opportunities to brush-up on your
Greek with the friendly villagers, who are ever-willing to give
directions, discuss the weather, and perhaps share a glass of their
homemade raki.
Tinos has a long tradition of painting and sculpture which continues
to this day. The island is a showcase
for
its marble artists, as evidenced by fountains, statues, and adornments
in and on churches and houses (particularly window fanlights, a Tinos
creation), whether the structure be humble or noble. Some of the most
exquisite artistry is to be found on the 600 or more dovecotes
sprinkled throughout the countryside, each handcrafted in a unique and
complex design.
And, for those wishing to learn, firsthand, the technique of marble
sculpture, there are regularly-scheduled classes conducted by one of
the island's foremost sculptors. Additionally, there are several fine
museums on the island, as well as a School of Fine Arts in the village
of Pirgos. The emphasis on art is well-merited and is a continual
source of pride and accomplishment for the numerous Tinian artisans
who are known the world over.
For beach-lovers, Tinos has something for every taste ~ golden sand,
pebbles, or rocks and boulders, and none are crowded nor noisy. Almost
all of Tinos' beaches have eating facilities nearby, and many offer
freshly caught fish, grilled to perfection. Snorkelling in protected
bays is a marvelous way to spend an afternoon, exploring an incredible
variety of underwater flora and fauna.
In town, you can shop for fresh fruits and vegetables at the local
farmers' market in the area called Pallada, have fun browsing through
the Tinos flea market for trinkets and souvenirs, and relax at a
harborfront café with an ice cold beer, or a Greek coffee, and those
wonderful little Greek donuts called "Loukoumades." For nightowls and
insomniacs, the town has a full range of late-night restaurants, snack
bars, coffee shops, bars and discos, and many of them stay open 'til
the wee hours.
So … now you know the best kept secret of the Cycladic Islands …
culture, history, art, things to do, places to go, friends to make,
and memories to keep. No such thing as perfection? It's waiting for
you here on Tinos!
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