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The Highlight of the Year CARNIVAL IN PATRA
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Patras is the capital of the region or prefecture. It owes
its name to Patreas, chief of the Achaians. The city is among the most
important in Greece, and the largest in the Peloponnese. It is also a
major transportation centre, linking the country with Italy and the
Peloponnese with the Ionian Islands. The city extends from the shore up to
the Castle. It is divided into two parts, the upper and the lower, whose
layout, parks and plazzas give it a definite distinction. The old city, at
the foot of the castle, still has quite a number of attractive
neoclassical houses, while the lower city has many mansions, such as those
housing the Municipal Theatre, the Odeon, etc.
The Cathedral of St. Andrew, the city's patron, rises majestically above the lower city. To the left of it stands an older church built on the site of a Byzantine church that was destroyed by the Turks. From here Trion Navarchon Street leads to Psila Alonia - the "balcony" of Patras - a lovely spacious square with slender palm trees and a sun dial. Patras possesses a fine archaeological museum, an art gallery and a printing museum. Dominating the city from on high looms the ruined shell of the castle, whose grounds have been transformed into a park. From here you have a view of the whole city and the sea beyond. Patras' famous Carnival - a festive sampling of its citizens' imagination, humour and high spirits - attracts thousands of visitors every year. Finally, the city's innumerable pastry shops, its quiet little cafes, its wide range of tavernas, its lively streets bustling with locals, foreigners and transient travellers complete the picture of Patras, beautiful and celebrated throughout Greece.
The coasts of Achaia are a delightful concoction of
picturesque villages, indented shores, gardens and shady trees. A treat
for the eye. While the heart of Achaia may be its mountains, one cannot
fail to hear its soul in the murmur of the sea. Leaving Corinth, you take
the coast road all the way to Patras. It's more scenic than the National
Road, since it's right on the water's edge. You reach Akrata, a coastal
village, set in lush surroundings on a crystal clear sea. This was the
site of ancient Aigai. In the hinterland, a sight worth seeing is the
post-Byzantine monastery of Agia Triada (1715), which has well-preserved
mosaics. Next come Platanos, Trapeza, verdant hamlets, and Diakofto. This
is where the funicular railway leaves for Kalavrita. Continuing along the
coast road, you see the roofs of one village after another poking through
the unbroken green of the hillsides
Stop for a while at Egion.
In this town, which is divided into an upper and a lower section, the old
district near the shore is interesting; an enormous plane tree noted by
Pausanias on his travels still reigns supreme. The church of the Virgin
Faneromeni, built according to designs by Schiller, lies in the upper
town. Just outside the town one can visit the chapel of the Virgin Trypiti,
tucked into a crevice in a rock. The parade of villages continues. Longos,
with its pebbly beach, Lambiri, with its lovely shore, Psathopirgos, a
pretty hamlet. Each one has its special role to play, its distinguishing
feature. And all of them have a little taverna or a quaint cafe where you
can relax for a while.
Right before Patras comes Rio, a transportation hub, uniting
the Peloponnese with Central Greece and Epiros by car ferry. Jutting
towards the sea, the old Venetian fortress, the "Castle of the Morea",
faded and ravaged by time, is the first thing to strike the eye.
Traversing Patras, continue along the old Patras - Pirgos road. It is in
good condition with a view of the sea and passes endless stretches of
sandy beach (Araxos) and charming villages lapped in greenery. This little
jaunt ends at Kalogria in time for an afternoon dip and a rest on its white sand.
The mountain villages of Achaia are scattered below its three highest peaks, Mts. Panahaiko, Erimanthos or Olanos, and Aroaneia or Helmos. Set atop invisible plateaus or on precipitous slopes amidst a riot of vegetation, these singularly lovely and picturesque villages inspire wonder in the wayfarer. A half-hour's drive from Kalavrita, near the village of Kastria, will bring you to the cave of the lakes. A narrow passage takes you into a first small cave that broadens into an enormous cavern 2 km. long with 15 miniature lakes formed by natural dams. The stalagmites and stalactites with their extraordinary shapes, the iridescent colours, the immense boulders, the small waterfalls and the tiny lakes with their natural dams stimulate and delight the imagination. And now let's take a trip to the cool green villages where one can see antiquities (Klitoria, Likouria) or vestiges of Frankish and Byzantine rule. Each village has a precious gift to offer, something truly beautiful. You'll find so many springs on the way. Here and there wayside shrines. Sometimes a flock of sheep will block your passage on the road and you'll hear the cautionary growl of the sheepdog, but the friendly nod of the shepherd will accompany you to the nearest hamlet. Near by the village Pagrati, there is the famous "vine branch" of Pausanias, with very big branches, dating back to thousands of years. After that you'll spy villages climbing up a ravine (Aroania, 930 m.), others smothered in fir trees (Kertezi, 1050 m.). The houses are all made of stone, with roofs of tile. If you look hard, you'll even find traditional houses with towers. All the villages have their main square, fountain with gushing water, little cafe or taverna. Kertezi is renowned for its bean soup and glorious wine. And each place has a story to tell, whether about its Byzantine church and miraculous icon, its local castle or distant myth. Whoever you meet will greet you like a dear old friend. And it won't take long before you really are friends. It will be hard to drag yourself away. The country folk are a warm presence in Achaia. Their tables are laden with bread, olives, cheese, wine and kindness.
